Dispatches

Robin Lewis“What Your Intern Is Really Thinking, “ written by our staff Millennial, Grace Ehlers addresses the seemingly cavalier and misguided view among most companies about her generation, particularly those with college degrees. The article was justifiably critical, in my opinion, of companies assuming that these “best and brightest” of the Millennials should be available for hire as non-compensated “interns.” She has a follow-up article in which she challenges the misconceptions among many companies about the work ethics and career expectations of her generation.

So, as I set forth my argument regarding the deflation and devaluation of our economy and everything in it, due to our shift from value creation to value consumption, exacerbated by our new, “less-free- market” form of capitalism, it struck me how this shift is, and will continue to have perhaps its greatest negative impact on Grace’s generation. Conversely, it also struck me how this shift is wasting this generation as the greatest asset we have, and if given the chance, they might provide the very solution we need to reverse our economic decline.

Here’s the scenario for these Millennials. On totally reverse trajectories we have an economy that is shifting from higher-paying manufacturing jobs, including those in charge of running those companies, who also happen to require higher intelligence and professional skills, to lower-paying service jobs (feeding a consumption economy), and which require a lower set of skills and level of education. So not only fewer jobs, but lower paying jobs that are well beneath the skills of college graduates.

Furthermore, the theory that once we lost our manufacturing base we would simply move up the “food chain,” creating wealth and higher levels of value through innovation, technology and science has been debunked by many economists. In short, engineering, science and technology degrees are being sought less by students instead favoring MBA’s and liberal arts. And, while thousands of foreign students do seek those degrees from our best universities, they are finding it almost impossible (for many reasons) to obtain visas to stay and work in the US. Thus we not only lose their intelligence for these higher “food chain” industries, we are in fact, exporting these industries to China, India and other countries around the world. And, while all of this is happening, more and more young people than ever before have been graduating with college degrees.

However, most of them are heavily in debt for educational loans, (in the aggregate, about $1 trillion, and the percentage of borrowers who are more than 90 days delinquent has risen to 17%, from 10% in 2004). And the number of young Americans without a job has exploded to 53.4% —a post-World War II high, according to the Labor Department.

So, fewer and fewer jobs and more and more educated young people in dire need of jobs, spells tragedy. It is a tragedy because as I said, we are wasting our most valuable asset, the one cohort of our population who, if given a chance, might figure out how to reverse the economic decline.

Why Are Handbags So Important?

The Robin Report - HandbagsFunctional, Personal Statement, Self Expression, Fashion Accessory, Status Symbol?

The correct answer I believe is: “All of the above.” I’m not a handbag person, per se, although I own several. I don’t think of status so much when I buy a purse, yet I realize that, in addition to function, which for me means not too heavy and enough room for my stuff, I am conveying something about myself when I tote around my handbag. As Nora Ephron said in her very funny essay, I Hate My Purse, “…your purse is, in some absolutely horrible way, you…”

Whether real, fake, or my new favorite, ‘luxury pre-owned,’ handbags are an expression of who we are and where we belong in social, economic and fashion terms. As our most visible fashion accessory, our handbag is both functional and symbolic, conveying to others the tribe to which we belong. A form of self-expression and signal of personal style, handbags are also an entrée to luxury and glamour. One may not be able to afford that penthouse apartment on Fifth Avenue; or, the private tented safari in Africa; but, one could, perhaps, feel a part of that world with say, a Louis Vuitton bag. [Read more...]

Bribery, Felony or Line Item?

iStock_000010810931_SmallAre we all felons bribing our way though international commerce or victims of corruption, forced to pay the price of admission?

Let’s face it. Bribery is a cottage industry in many countries—part of their cultural DNA. The sad truth is that buying and selling influence is often the grease that lubricates the wheels of global commerce.

In Spain, it’s “mordita”– the bite. In French, “dessous-de-table,” loosely under the table. In German, it’s “schmiergeld” or smoothing money and in the Middle East the ancient Persian practice of “baksheesh” or gratuity has been common currency for a thousand years. [Read more...]

Hogwash

iStock_000000315739_ExtraSmallAnd if You Believe It, I “Have a Bridge to Sell You.”

Hogwash is a great word, as I was reminded by my colleague, Judy Russell, CEO of consultancy Markethink. First used in the 15th Century, it referred to swill, slop, nonsense and balderdash. And it’s particularly appropriate when describing the findings of a recent study conducted by none other than the Boston Consulting Group, as well an earlier survey conducted by NPD in the fall of last year.

Up front and to be clear, I am not attaching the “hogwash” description to the methodology, and how the research was conducted by these two revered institutions; and not even the accuracy of the findings. I am describing as “hogwash” what the findings indicate would be consumer behavior in making a purchasing decision based on patriotism and a “made in America” label over price. [Read more...]

Walmart’s Hire-a-Vet Program: Patriotic Gesture? Or Good for Walmart?

American veterans returning from war have had a history of finding employment at Fortune 10 companies. After the Korean War they got engineering and sales jobs at IBM and Texaco. After Vietnam they became production technicians and manufacturing coordinators at Dupont and Monsanto.

Those returning from Iraq and Afghanistan will be working at Walmart. Now that’s what I call economic progress.

At January’s National Retail Federation Convention in New York, CEO and President Bill Simon announced the Bentonville behemoth’s pledge to hire any returning veteran who wants a job, in a program it will kick off on (when else?) Memorial Day. It will result in 100,000 jobs for returning military personnel over the next five years.

This is a wonderfully patriotic gesture, and a great opportunity for all those returning vets, right? Or is it? [Read more...]

QA with Eric C. Wiseman, Chairman, President and CEO of VF Corporation

The Robin Report - Eric WisemanROBIN LEWIS So, right off the bat, how the heck can one person run a $10 to $12 billion company?

ERIC WISEMAN You can’t! VF has been, and I hope always will be, a team sport. When I look at the leadership teams around VF there’s no question that we have really talented people, but we don’t have “superstars.” What we do have is people who work extremely well together, who compliment each others talents, and who are committed to the teams success. That dynamic drives whatever success we’ve had. And, since you know me pretty well, you obviously know that I’m not capable of “running” VF….if I was I’d have a much different balance in my life.

RL So, Eric, the numbers on VF under your watch as CEO speak for themselves, and they would say you’re doing a great job.

EW For about five years now, since we’ve changed directions corporately, we’ve been executing on the right things. So, when you execute against the right things it generally works for you.

RL Going into the last half of this year against a rather negative global and U.S. economic backdrop, do you want to revise your earlier 15% growth projection for 2012, or at least hedge your bets, and if so, in what areas of the business? [Read more...]

Dear Reader

Robin LewisGlobalization is no longer some esoteric conversation about how the world’s coming together, inter-connecting cultures and commerce, and wonderful stuff like that. For U.S. brands, retailers and all consumer-facing industries, globalization, or growing their businesses internationally, has become a necessity.

And, the “BRIC” countries, so named by an economist at Goldman Sachs (Brazil, Russia, India and China), were deemed at the turn of the century, emerging engines of growth. And so they were, even faring well through the Great Recession.

Now, however, their growth has begun to slow as the developed world continues to struggle on the edge of further recessionary, financial and political turmoil, all acting as a drag on the BRICs. Even so, their GDP growth is roughly double that of the developed countries, Europe, and the U.S. in particular.

So, while the BRICs are not rising at their earlier blistering pace, for U.S. companies to sideline their entry into GDP growths ranging from 5 to 8 percent would be foolish. However, focus should be on the BICs, since Russia seems to be on a “sabbatical” from its BRIC colleagues, hovering at around 3 percent growth with all kinds of complications, big deficits, rising inflation, and a host of other issues attendant to its plutocratic type government. [Read more...]

To Go, or Not To Go…Into India

As They Shoot Themselves in The Foot

If you’re an entity that’s thinking about making a foreign direct investment in India, either as a capital investment or a commercial venture, the country is certainly not providing compelling reasons for doing so. However, as they say,“ …let’s get past these so we can move forward.”

For starters, economic growth in India has dropped to its lowest level in nine years, down to 5.3 percent GDP for Q1, 2012, from its blistering rates of 9 to 10 percent during its prized inclusion as one of the “BRIC” countries along with Brazil, Russia and China, all of which are now in some mode of slowdown. Further, as of this writing, Standard & Poor’s said that India could become the first of the so-called BRIC economies to lose its investment-grade status, already at BBB-, the lowest possible investment grade rating.

However, the economy and its investment grade notwithstanding, India seems intent on shooting itself in the foot politically, particularly as it relates to attracting foreign investors, as well as the bureaucratic stifling of its own marketplace, thus threatening to exacerbate its decline.

India ranks a pitiful 132nd in the World Bank’s “Ease of Doing Business” countries, between Nigeria and the Palestinian Territories, due to its sea of red tape and sclerotic bureaucracy. The country recently rescinded a 2011 government ruling that would have allowed multi-brand retailers, such as Walmart, to own 51 percent of their business in India; and single brands, such as Nike, 100 percent ownership. It has reverted back to the necessity for U.S. multi-brand stores to only establish wholesale joint ventures, and single brands back to owning only 51 percent. Prime Minister Singh protested the ruling essentially to protect India’s small shopkeepers, forever its primary retail model.

Further, India has imposed new taxes on foreign businesses, even retroactively on past deals. Talk about a reason to have second thoughts on entering or leaving India. In fact, the outflow of capital, partly attributed to this move, is considered one of the reasons for the rupee’s 13 percent fall since the beginning of the year. [Read more...]

Q&A with Darshan Meta, President and CEO, Reliance Brands

Robin: Can you give me a perspective as to why our retailers and brands ought to be looking at India more closely now?

Darshan: There are three ways to answer that question. To speak on their behalf, they should be looking at India just because the U.S. is a saturated and mature market with an aging population, so the headroom for growth can only happen by robbing from someone else’s plate. Fundamentally, starting with the Baby Boomer generation, the 40 to 50 years of unmitigated retail and consumer boom that the U.S. went through is in some forms – in many forms – tapering off. So they need to discover unconquered territories.

Logically I had suspected that space should have been Europe. I suspect now that it comes to the third-tier larger markets, in terms of land mass, population, and GDP. It brings one to markets like Brazil, Russia, India and China. From our viewpoint, it is a fallacious approach to bring up India and China in the same breath. Depending on what you base it on, we are seven to 10 years behind China. Although geographically we are neighbors, China is better off spoken in the same breath as the USA. [Read more...]

The ‘Do Nothing’ Avon Board…Too Little, Too Late — Dividend in Jeopardy

Rarely has a new CEO jumped into a big-time, high-profile turnaround situation such as Avon Inc. presents. And if history is any guide, the ‘Do Nothing’ Avon Board of Directors will not be of any help.

Sherilyn S. McCoy who took over the CEO slot on April 23rd must hit the ground running. And not only must she put out short-term fires, she also has to develop a long-term strategic plan — on the run. Simultaneously, she must learn a new (for her) direct-sell business model. Plus she has to deal with SEC probes of bribery charges in China; insider trading accusations; and a myriad of operational malfunctions. In fact, many are questioning her first major judgment call concerning Avon, and that is accepting the job in the first place.

McCoy, who was formerly Vice Chairman of Johnson and Johnson, was passed over for the CEO job at the $65 billion pharmaceutical giant in February. McCoy gets high marks for  reinvigorating the pharmaceutical division at J&J facing patent expirations on major drugs. She did not have as much luck when she took over J&J’s consumer business that was hit hard by manufacturing problems leading to the recall of products ranging from Tylenol to baby lotions.

Andrea Jung, former CEO and current Executive Chairman, who has controlled the ‘Do Nothing’ Board for over a decade gets the blame for Avon Products’ current sorry state of affairs, and she deserves more than her fair share. But the real culprit is the Board of Directors. Inexperience cannot be the explanation. The majority of the Board has had some experience with the direct selling model, as six of them have been members for 10 or so years. How deeply they understand the model is another question.

By the time the ‘Do Nothing’ Board acted, the company was already spiraling out of control. Unless Avon’s McCoy turns out to be Houdini, and can pull a rabbit out of a hat, it may well be too late to save the 125-year-old direct-selling beauty company. [Read more...]

Why I Am Aglow With UNIQLO

I first heard of Uniqlo several years ago when the company opened a pop-up store in Rockefeller Center. People were raving about the inexpensive cashmere sweaters. Always interested in a bargain, I checked it out. I was underwhelmed. Not enough sizes, a real mish-mash as I recall. It was dark and dreary. A dull basement space that was completely unexciting.

I returned to Uniqlo from a neutral point of view. However, this time around, the energy in the store, the sharp pricing the great overall merchandising and promotion, plus the fiber/product exclusivity, was so pro positive, that I have gone to the cheerleading side.

Over the last two years I received a couple of Uniqlo turtleneck ‘HEATTECH’ tops as gifts. These are made of a proprietary fabric that keeps you warm in winter by generating and retaining heat. The items can be worn as an under-layer or just alone. The fabric is kind of stretchy, “highly resilient and durable,” anti-static, odor resistant and designed to maintain its shape after repeated washings. And it does. [Read more...]

Patriotism When Politically Convenient

And Hypocrisy Over Olympic Games Apparel

Oh, what an election year can cause. Not that I’m for protecting our manufacturing industries when they can’t seem to protect themselves by being smarter and more innovative than those of the low-cost countries that have replaced them, including in apparel. It may have been inevitable anyway. However, I had to laugh at the hypocrisy of our politicians, and from both sides of the aisle, with their bombastic diatribes aimed at the Ralph Lauren company for having selected Chinese manufacturers to make the Olympics uniforms.

Why now? Where has all of this ire and political posturing been for the last half century as we idly stood by and watched China (primarily) take the apparel and textile manufacturing industries away from us? With one brief, “last gasp” effort in the 1980s led by Roger Milliken, then CEO of Milliken & Company, a leading textile manufacturer in South Carolina, a program called “Crafted With Pride in America” was launched to save those industries from being snapped up by so-called low-cost manufacturing countries. Without going into great detail, after several years and many billions of dollars later, the program collapsed under its own weight. [Read more...]