“I’m Dying to Make Your T-shirt For You”

chain_of_supply_RR

What’s Wrong With That Statement?

Am I wrong to be disgusted over the blatant irresponsibility of some of the largest retailers and apparel brands in the world, as well as the governments and factory owners in the countries sought for the lowest possible manufacturing costs? Not to mention their collective and total disregard of the horrific working conditions; “slave labor” compensation; indeed the very lives of those making the world’s precious apparel? I will answer for you. Not only am I right, we should all be disgusted.

But let me be clear. I am singling out those brands and retailers who have far too long “kicked the can down the road,” avoiding direct responsibility for dealing with a “slave-like” process, albeit a very complicated one. Why am I singling them out, and detaching them from the fraudulent and corrupt governments and businesses they must deal with? Because at the end of the day, it is their supply chain. They control it. They own it. And, they are the only entity in the whole rotten process that has the clout to correct it.

Some are doing it right, and you know who you are. Many have not done anything about it, or at best deferred direct responsibility, and you know who you are.

So, for those of you who have “passed the buck,” “turned a blind eye,” and generally stuffed it down on your priority list, I am “in your face” about your supply chain. And yes, it is your supply chain!

At the beginning of your supply chain there are people literally dying to make your stuff for you, for as little compensation as their greedy factory bosses can get away with. Why? Just so they can subsist at some groveling level, so that you, at the other end of your supply chain, can make a fortune and continue to subsist in “opulence” (certainly a lifestyle beyond what that groveling worker can even imagine). And let’s not forget how attached at the hip you are to your compulsively addicted, and excessively consumptive consumer, who just wants more, more, and more for me, me, me — and oh yes, cheaper, cheaper, and cheaper.

And I don’t have to tell you that in order to continue to give more and cheaper to that consumer, while still maintaining your wonderful lifestyle — and, oh yes, giving Wall Street what it demands — somebody has to take the fall and give more for less somewhere in your supply chain. And where might that be? Just think about the now 1100 dead, plus the injured, disabled, and their extended families now living in horror in Bangladesh. And then think about what the greedy, fraudulent, corrupt, criminal bosses and politicians do to do to keep up their lifestyles by promising to give you “more for less,” regardless of what it takes to make that happen.

Disgusting? It’s beyond disgusting. And, I declare it is your supply chain even though you may share those poor workers with other major brands and retailers.

And while I’m at it, I’m also sick of hearing about how we lift up these third-world economies by importing billions of dollars of stuff, which in turn provides jobs for their poverty-level populace, thus creating a virtuous cycle of growth. Growth for whom? Growth for the bosses and politicians I described above, riding on “the backs” of cheap labor. Indeed, in harsh reality, it’s a vicious cycle of depression and death for those of least value to your supply chain – the workers.

It’s Your Supply Chain – Only You Can Do Something About It

So, I really have no interest in reading or hearing about consortiums, NGOs, and big gatherings of “Mr. Bigs” to figure out what to do about this horrific situation. We know where “designs by committee” end up; much less, committees that are made up, and largely led by, the very same people who have caused this disastrous situation in the first place — and whose interests benefit from keeping this as status quo.

At the end of the day, it is your supply chain, period. So, do something about it on your own. Get “feet on the ground” where this horror is playing out, and do the right thing by forcing those at the beginning of your supply chain to do the right thing. And then keep your people on the ground to enforce it.

And if the bosses don’t adhere to your demands, just plain fire them, as you would any other employee that doesn’t work by the rules. YOU are the money train for the entire supply chain. Only YOU can make the right thing happen. If costs go up and you lose a few bucks on the bottom line, at least you may be saving a life at the very beginning of your supply chain.

So, do the right thing! Or, go live with yourself in a dark closet somewhere filled with clothes made by “slave labor.”

Amazon Frightened the Behemoth And It Boomeranged

The Robin ReportThat would be the Walmart behemoth, still the one and only behemoth of its size in the world, the last I took count.  At about $61 billion in annual revenues, Amazon is still a puny contender to Walmart’s nearly $500 billion.  But, relatively puny as they might be, they scared the pants off Walmart several years ago when it was rumored they were about to open brick-and-mortar stores.

And although the behemoth did not heed FDR’s advice: “The only thing we have to fear is fear itself.” It was a good thing that they did not. Because if they had not feared Amazon’s rumored move, Bertrand Russell’s quote would not have been so prescient to Walmart’s management: “To conquer fear is the beginning of wisdom.”

If not solely due to a reaction to Amazon, Walmart nevertheless got wise real fast. And they got wise in how they viewed the future of retailing and their participation in it. In other words, the paradigm was shifting in Bentonville, and still is. And now it should be Amazon who is shaking in fear.

The Scenario

I believe the fear led to some epiphanies in the management ranks down in Bentonville.  Seeing the future more clearly, I think they looked at their business model and said, “hey guys, we’ve been stuck in our paradigm of the past: a store is a store is a store.”

In fact, they were so focused on stores being stores, that a few years ago when a top executive at Walmart was asked if the rumor of Amazon opening stores was true, his reply was not a mild, “we’d be concerned,” or even “we’d view that as a serious competitive threat.”  He said, “That is Walmart’s biggest fear,” with the emphasis on “is,” meaning, of course, that there was more fact than fiction smoking out of that rumor.  And indeed, the drums are now beating louder in anticipation of Amazon launching brick-and-mortar stores.

So, what happened in Bentonville was epiphany #1, which caused a complete flip from playing defensive to going on the offense. From a fear of Amazon coming onto their turf with Pentagon-sized consumer data and opening showroom-like stores tailored to local consumer preferences. Walmart, rather than shaking in their boots, awakened to the understanding that they were looking at their business model the old-fashioned way and operating with old-growth strategies, accordingly.

The Epiphany and Newfound Wisdom

Walmart awakened to the fact that a store isn’t a store, and likewise, a website isn’t just a website.  These are not two distinct and discreet businesses.  And more than just seeing its business as an “omnichannel,” that over-worked buzzword, Walmart, in my opinion, cleared the fuzz from their vision and saw their business as being a direct-to-consumer distributor of goods and services.

When viewed as such, they can envision and create all kinds of virtual and real distribution channels and platforms, including smaller neighborhood stores and even potentially operating on competitors’ platforms.  All, of course, must be responsive to wherever, whenever, however and how often the consumer wants to purchase.  So, Walmart then assesses their enormous global enterprise of some 4500 stores and redefines them as distribution centers (as Macy’s and other enlightened retailers have done) where online purchased goods can be picked up or returned.  Additionally, Walmart is still a physical shopping destination, while Amazon has zero stores. And to cite the now well-known fact that shoppers who shop both online and off spend 50% more than those who shop only one channel, just adds a synergy weapon that Amazon lacks.

Viewed through this new lens, those guys in Arkansas have themselves a big chuckle, as they talk about puny little Amazon (no longer the specter of death) scurrying around placing distribution “lockers” in Staples, Rite Aid and others.  Furthermore, Walmart realizes that its online sales of about $9 billion is less than 2% of its total business. And while in absolute numbers, that ranks them second only to Amazon online (in its channel) with its size leverage, including 4500 distribution centers (and stores) to Amazon’s roughly 100 (and zero stores), it also means their opportunity to quickly ramp up, or to “get bigger than Amazon, faster” to use Bezos’ mantra, is enormous.  Should Amazon now be afraid of losing their dominance online?

That said, Bezos calls the start of every day, “Day 1.” He’s truly a genius and if, as predicted in my past article, Amazon launches stores (more as localized “showroom” experiences) and assaults the behemoth in every neighborhood and on the global playing field, the guys in Arkansas will likely stop chuckling.  As pointed out in that article, Amazon’s growth since 2006 was a blistering 300% (while Walmart grew 21% during the same period).

My question at the time, as it is now: “So, how long does it take a $69 billion business, growing at a 300% pace every five years, to reach $500 billion in sales?” You do the math. Answer: it’s about eight years. And, if they synergize the ecommerce business with stores, it might even be sooner.

So, welcome to the heavyweight championship of the world. In one corner, we have the reigning and current champion, the “Behemoth from Bentonville.”  In the other is the smaller and lighter, but feisty and fast, “Amazing Amazon Apocalypse,” who claims to float like a butterfly and sting like a bee. Ladies and gentlemen, place your bets.

The Perfect Fit at Bloomingdale’s

meality_bloomingdales_350We all know about the problem of lousy fitting apparel, but, the percentage of women who can’t find clothes that fit is awesome: try 62%, and online, it’s the biggest barrier for trying new brands. Worse for retailers, $45 billion of it is returned annually from both store and online purchases. Those are staggeringly bad numbers. And we are not just having a “hissy-fit” over bad-fitting apparel. This is reality and has been for as long as I’ve been in the business, which is now way too long. [Read more...]

Crows, Crows Everywhere, and Which Ones to Eat?

robin_lewis_crow_medNote that the crow sitting on my shoulder is not yet on a plate waiting to be eaten. That’s because I’m trying to remember all the reasons for which I should be eating crow, and when I identify all of them, how I might gracefully go about eating all of it.

But before I get into that, I must inform all of my readers who may have been living on another planet, that the subject here is perhaps the most colossal, dramatic, tragic, transparent, rapid and microscopically tracked meltdown in the history of retailing. That being the current saga of JC Penney, along with its producer, director and leading man: Ron Johnson.

I say meltdown because JC Penney is not yet dead (Johnson isn’t either, but regardless, the vultures are picking away at him with glee). In fact, I’m still confident (and hopeful) that one of the biggest reasons for which many of you believe I should be eating crow, is my continuing and steadfast belief in Johnson’s ultimate vision: that of a transformed, uniquely-compelling shopping experience, appealing to a more contemporary-minded consumer who would form a new customer base, perhaps a smaller, yet more productive business, but nevertheless poised for growth vs. maturity.

As I’ve stated before, based on my tour of the mock-up store and some of the real conversions made in other doors, the major component of his vision was off to a good start. Anecdotally, Joe Mimran, CEO of Joe Fresh, commented to me just two weeks out from the Joe Fresh “shops” launch in about 700 doors, that he was surprised at how sales far exceeded their expectations. So, of all the parts of Johnson’s strategy that Mike Ullman will be picking through to determine what is salvageable, my hope is that he and/or his successor will continue to implement that transformation. And, by the way, Ullman, in my opinion is absolutely the right person to come back to the helm during this period of operational disruption and disarray, with financials about to go over the cliff. He will stabilize the business, its culture and will hopefully determine a path to return to positive financial stability.

So, I really won’t have to eat crow over the major part of Johnson’s change-agent strategy until it’s either, played out and proven a failure, or unless Mike Ullman decides it is no longer a viable transformation or a repositioning that will succeed. On second thought, if Ullman decides to kill it, I guess I won’t have to eat crow at all because we’ll never know if it would have succeeded, once fully rolled out.

One Potential Meal of Crow: The One That Brought it all Down

There is one major reason for which I may decide to eat a taste of crow. And Ron Johnson may very well have already eaten several whole birds. And that would be me buying into his pricing strategy, both the way in which he devised it (and without research), but more importantly, the timing. I doubled down on his bet that consumers were ready to be weaned, cold turkey, off of their addiction to coupons, sales and discounting in general. By the way, it reminds me of that movie, “Reefer Madness” (circa 1936).

Anyway, the fact that he chose to lead with “fair and square” pricing, before any noticeable physical changes in the stores; before establishing contemporized new brands and merchandise; essentially before a whole new JCP and its array of experiences could be clearly witnessed by consumers; in my opinion, this was the single most catastrophic component of his overall strategy. This single act, sent his customers packing, spending $4 billion of JCP’s top line elsewhere and contributing to its $1 billion operating loss (along with the other capital and reorganizational expenses), for Johnson’s first year into the transformation.

While he acknowledged his mistake, too little was done too late to reverse the avalanche of sales losses that just kept building. Tragically, in my opinion, this was the major mistake that brought the financial condition of the company to the brink, and threw Johnson over the edge.

Had he not opened with his cold-turkey pricing scheme, and simply proceeded with the physical transformation, customers may have been somewhat disrupted by the construction and changes taking place. Some may have been put off, but not in droves. Some of the older customers may have ultimately been turned off by some of the new, more contemporary brands. But, as the total experience, including the merchandise, evolved over time, new, younger “family” customers would have been attracted, replacing the aging segment of the old JCP core. And as I said, the new transformed space (probably with fewer doors), would be more productive as some of the early “shop” comparisons proved. Furthermore, this added experiential value for consumers would justify some variation of his “fair and square” pricing strategy. And, yes, they would have been poised for growth.

Would Ron Johnson still have a job if the numbers had not tumbled with such ferocity, along with the relentless beating from Wall Street and the media day-in and day-out?

Well, according to the authors of most of the post-mortem articles, blogs and broadcasts, who keep digging up all of the negative residue they can find about Ron Johnson’s character (including hubris), management style, lack of CEO experience, snap decision-making without testing or experienced counsel, and many other questionable strategic and tactical missteps, one could believe there are a multitude of reasons other than Johnson’s pricing strategy that would have eventually led to his demise.

We’ll never know. But, I will stick my neck out once again, (for which I will not have to eat crow), and just repeat what we all do know. Money talks and that’s why Bill Ackman and the Board finally “walked.”

At the end of the day, and Ron Johnson’s last day at JC Penney, it was the pricing that brought it all down.

And at the end of my day, this is what I will eat crow over. And for all of those “I told you so’s” in my over-stuffed inbox, I will savor it and will eat it gracefully, while I hope for Johnson’s successor to continue transforming JC Penney into an innovative store for our times with an eye to the future.

Hogwash

iStock_000000315739_ExtraSmallAnd if You Believe It, I “Have a Bridge to Sell You.”

Hogwash is a great word, as I was reminded by my colleague, Judy Russell, CEO of consultancy Markethink. First used in the 15th Century, it referred to swill, slop, nonsense and balderdash. And it’s particularly appropriate when describing the findings of a recent study conducted by none other than the Boston Consulting Group, as well an earlier survey conducted by NPD in the fall of last year.

Up front and to be clear, I am not attaching the “hogwash” description to the methodology, and how the research was conducted by these two revered institutions; and not even the accuracy of the findings. I am describing as “hogwash” what the findings indicate would be consumer behavior in making a purchasing decision based on patriotism and a “made in America” label over price. [Read more...]

JCP, Argo, the Golden Fleece, Odysseus, and the Sirens

greek_chorusThere is some irony to JCP’s heavy sponsorship of the Oscars relative to Argo winning “best picture.” The fact that the mythical Greek ship Argo and its crew were searching for the elusive Golden Fleece while being protected by the goddess Hera might be a good omen for Ron Johnson. However, there doesn’t seem to be even a mythical protector anywhere in sight, much less a real one. In fact, using another mythological metaphor, Johnson could be like Odysseus, being warned of the Sirens by the Greek goddess Circe. The Sirens were trying to lure him and his ship’s crew to their certain death, being tossed by the sea into the very same rocks and cliffs that Argo was able to sail past. Circe told Odysseus to put beeswax in the ears of his crew and if he felt he couldn’t resist listening, he should have his crew lash him to the mast. [Read more...]

The Bottom: Where Is It?

Robin LewisTalk about “race to the bottom,” what’s happening on a global economic scale should scare the heck out of all of us. Listen to this. It’s no longer just the devaluing of goods, through discounting or growing through the expansion of outlet stores instead of full-price stores; or the “Amazonian” business practice of losing money to gain share by undercutting competitors’ pricing. It’s also about the devaluing of currencies across the globe. Such a currency devaluation in the U.S., for example, is driven by our blatant and ongoing printing of more “greenbacks,” (supported by “nada” I might add; just the blind hope that things will eventually get better). Originally intended to spur domestic investment and growth through the compression of short-term interest rates to stimulate borrowing, it has instead been used primarily for the “speed trading” of equities for short-term gain. It is also intended to stimulate exports, as the dollar falls in value against other currencies around the globe, making it cheaper for other countries to buy American goods. Sounds terrific, doesn’t it? [Read more...]

“Innovate Or Die”

kennethwalkerI ask you, is this the face of innovation or death (or both)? Most of you elder statesmen out there, like myself, know this guy. He’s Kenneth Walker, architect, retail design consultant, speaker, teacher and industry gadfly at large. He’s also a friend and colleague of mine and playfully reminded me recently, that I used his original, but now very generic declaration: “innovate or die,” without attributing it to him. It happened to be my opening line for The Robin Report article: “Innovation: Ill-Defined, Misunderstood and a Rare Occurrence.”

Why would I attribute him? As I said, it’s generic because when he first used it at an NRF convention 17 years ago, he didn’t see fit to protect it in any way (not sure he could have anyway). The whole IP issue at that time (pre-Internet dominant) was nascent at best. So it’s like the Kleenex brand today; used generically by most consumers to describe all tissues. Ken says it’s the title of his lecture series when he speaks at the Columbia Business School. His phrase has become part of the cultural conversation; a recent WRC speaker tried to use the title and was asked to change it, which he did. Well, good for you Ken.

Regardless of this little kerfuffle, my innovation article provided some new insights perspectives regarding fundamental and game-changing vs. incremental innovation. So, if you haven’t read it, by all means do, and it’s even worth a re-read. You can read the entire article here >> , and when you read the first sentence: Innovate or die; you can remember it came from this guy.

Will Robots be the New “Associates?”

SCHAFT Robot

SCHAFT Robot

It’s zombie-land out there.  Nobody talks anymore.  They tweet and text.  Nobody meets anymore.  They tweet, text, email and occasionally have phone conferences.  And, we don’t need the Manti Te’o hoax (“catfishing” or whatever it is), to know that tweeting, texting, Facebooking, Skyping, falling in love with an avatar on Second Life and whatever else I don’t know about yet, is the new ‘dating.’  Digital simulation and stimulation is the new human touch.
Wow scary!  But, not to get all philosophical on you, what does this have to do with retail strategy? The short answer: everything.

On one level, the virtual world is more awesome, exciting, rewarding, easier, more convenient, less intense, less demanding and so forth, than the real world.  So, on that level, a person might rather be an avatar and get the heck out of this “messy” human world.  And, I fear many of them do just that, at least mentally.  I know I’m exaggerating, but only to make the point.

Anyway, for the majority of us who don’t literally “check out,” retailers must, at the very least, provide as many of the latest gizmos, gadgets, techie toys, videos, etc., both in store and online.  Virtual reality must be as much a part of the shopping “experience” as the store’s real-world restaurants, gelato and coffee stands, fashion shows, and whatever else. [Read more...]

Captain Lampert Takes The Helm

eddietitanicTo Go “Down With The Ship?” Or Just Another Abracadabra Strategy?

I just got all twitchy and excited when I heard the news. “Fast Buck Eddie” just hasn’t given me anything really fun to write about for a long time. Things on the “Titanic” have just been so boring. Of course that tends to happen when such gigantic ships start to sink. It takes such a long time for them to finally go under.

Well, this may be the moment before the final dive. The fact that “Eddie” is taking the helm, replacing Lou D’Ambrosio whom he named CEO in 2011, raises many questions, not the least of which is “why,” and for what reason going forward. Since taking control of Kmart in 2003 and merging it with Sears in 2005, his every reclusive move and veiled public pronouncements always raised more questions than answers, and certainly never provided any clear retail growth strategies. Rather, just a bunch of cobbled together tactics, as evidenced by the accompanying charts, with six straight years of declining revenues, profits and share value.

The huge number of executives Eddie has churned through is legendary. It has also been common knowledge that even as Chairman, he micromanaged the business, most often ordering his executives to travel from Sears headquarters in Chicago to his hedge fund office in Connecticut. Perhaps this was the reason for the “swinging door” (understandably fed-up executives), or perhaps it was due to hiring executives with the wrong skills, thus exacerbating the decline. Or, perhaps it was simply Eddie’s micromanaged decisions that now seem to be tipping the ship under for its final dive to the bottom. [Read more...]

ShowroomEE or ShowroomOR

whac-a-moleMore on Insane Pricing “Wars”

Once again, we’ve got even better disruptive technology tools, among what seems like a never-ending stream of them. If the almighty consumers figured they were cleverly outwitting and being disruptive to retailers by so-called “showrooming” (going to the store for information/education, then scanning bar codes to find a better price elsewhere), they’re about to get their comeuppance from two disruptive strategies on the retailers’ side. In fact, the whole enchilada around pricing and discounting is getting so complex and chaotic that it may very well drive both consumers and retailers over the “sanity cliff.” And, once over the edge, the pricing and discounting madness will likely continue between them all the way to the bottom. And, just what does “bottom” mean? It’s in the eye of the beholder.

So, now, with a couple of new tools, retailers are able to flip showrooming and become “showroom-ors,” for both their competitors and customers.

“Dynamic Pricing” or “Whac-A-Mole?”

Algorithm: the word itself conjures up some geeky, techno-mathematical wizardry in a world that, I, for one, have no clue about. Yet, algorithms are being used as one of the more popular tools for retailers to outwit competitors and consumers alike in the pricing “wars.” The most prevalent practice is among giants Amazon, Walmart, Target, Best Buy, Buy.com and Sears, and also in the more commoditized product categories in electronics, games, printers, cameras, TV’s and appliances.

Called “dynamic pricing,” retailers can “showroom” the “cloud” and learn how their competitors are pricing specific items and then automatically change their prices accordingly, in nano-seconds. Remember the good old days when retailers would send employees to competitors’ stores to check pricing, and days later put their own “sale” signs up? Now companies like Feedvisor and Mercent, use sophisticated computer programs and algorithmic tools, the same used for 80% of all stock market transactions, and are able to drive automatic price changes in a matter of seconds. Think “cyber wars” in real time. [Read more...]

More Financial “Free-Falling” at JC Penney

The Robin ReportWow!! Another disastrous quarter, and the beat goes on. Louder and louder it gets, and the media and financial analysts are having a field day. They have to be loving Ron Johnson for being “out there,” pouring forth the fodder they feed on. One provocative angle after another, for three quarters, fills pages and screens and increases readership and ratings.

The Robin ReportHow can I compete with those guys? They’re covering it faster, more rigorously and completely than I ever could. And, most of them are now joining the naysayers team. Also, as each quarter passes, the rate of email traffic into my box is increasing at the same rate as Penney’s is falling. All of them are instructing me to “just look at the numbers.” (reminds me of Detective Jack Webb of TV Dragnet series in the 50’s: “….just the facts ma’am.”).

The Robin ReportWell, my answer is: how could I not look at the numbers? They’re all over the place, so much so that I certainly do not have to repeat them all. And, I want to remind my readers that I am confident that there is one guy who is not only looking at the numbers, but analyzing them and deliberating over them more than anyone else, and that would be hedge fund titan, Bill Ackman, founder of Pershing Square and major stakeholder in the company. Further, I would say that his accumulated wealth of an estimated $2 billion was not gained from being stupid. Further yet, the last I heard, Ackman still supports Johnson’s strategy.

The Robin ReportNow, having said that, I do not have to repeat the numbers. But there are a couple of numbers I do want to repeat, and those would be the productivity numbers that are clearly connected to, and strengthen the case for sticking with his strategy and enduring the pain of change to its successful conclusion.

Across the enterprise there is a total of 111 million square feet. Of this total, 64 million are transformable into branded shops. To date, they have transformed 6 million square feet. Before conversion, the 6 million square feet produced $180 per square foot in sales. After conversion, they are contributing $239 per square foot, a 33% increase in productivity.

Furthermore, they conducted some before-and-after research among their core customer segments to determine their reactions to the shops and whether it affected their image of JC Penney.

Pre-tour               Post-tour
Traditional          Modern
Old fashioned     Innovative
Value                    Good value
Polyester              Sophisticated
Outdated             Trendy
Disorganized       Organized
Quality                 Higher quality at lower prices

The Robin ReportKind of a no-brainer; how could they not have been overwhelmingly positive about the change? This, of course, confirms my view that the “old” JC Penney customer, if anything, is inspired by the new image, and many of those that may have left prematurely due to pricing confusion, will return.
So, the naysayers, the “numbers guys” who are largely short-termers, not unlike most of Wall Street, can blah blah blah all they want about the short-term disaster of three short quarters, the “sky is falling” and there’s no place to hide.

Johnson gets a “double down” from me because my bet is on the two factors that prove his long-term vision is a winner: the productivity numbers of the converted space and the most important factor —drum roll please — the consumer. Oh, and hanging in there with Ackman isn’t so stupid either.