Robin Lewis

About Robin Lewis

Robin Lewis has over forty years of strategic operating and consulting experience in the retail and related consumer products industries. He has held executive positions at DuPont, VF Corporation, Women’s Wear Daily (WWD), and Goldman Sachs, among others, and has consulted for dozens of retail, consumer products and other companies. In addition to his role as CEO and Editorial Director of The Robin Report, he is a professor at the Graduate School of Professional Studies at The Fashion Institute of Technology.

“I’m Dying to Make Your T-shirt For You”

chain_of_supply_RR

What’s Wrong With That Statement?

Am I wrong to be disgusted over the blatant irresponsibility of some of the largest retailers and apparel brands in the world, as well as the governments and factory owners in the countries sought for the lowest possible manufacturing costs? Not to mention their collective and total disregard of the horrific working conditions; “slave labor” compensation; indeed the very lives of those making the world’s precious apparel? I will answer for you. Not only am I right, we should all be disgusted.

But let me be clear. I am singling out those brands and retailers who have far too long “kicked the can down the road,” avoiding direct responsibility for dealing with a “slave-like” process, albeit a very complicated one. Why am I singling them out, and detaching them from the fraudulent and corrupt governments and businesses they must deal with? Because at the end of the day, it is their supply chain. They control it. They own it. And, they are the only entity in the whole rotten process that has the clout to correct it.

Some are doing it right, and you know who you are. Many have not done anything about it, or at best deferred direct responsibility, and you know who you are.

So, for those of you who have “passed the buck,” “turned a blind eye,” and generally stuffed it down on your priority list, I am “in your face” about your supply chain. And yes, it is your supply chain!

At the beginning of your supply chain there are people literally dying to make your stuff for you, for as little compensation as their greedy factory bosses can get away with. Why? Just so they can subsist at some groveling level, so that you, at the other end of your supply chain, can make a fortune and continue to subsist in “opulence” (certainly a lifestyle beyond what that groveling worker can even imagine). And let’s not forget how attached at the hip you are to your compulsively addicted, and excessively consumptive consumer, who just wants more, more, and more for me, me, me — and oh yes, cheaper, cheaper, and cheaper.

And I don’t have to tell you that in order to continue to give more and cheaper to that consumer, while still maintaining your wonderful lifestyle — and, oh yes, giving Wall Street what it demands — somebody has to take the fall and give more for less somewhere in your supply chain. And where might that be? Just think about the now 1100 dead, plus the injured, disabled, and their extended families now living in horror in Bangladesh. And then think about what the greedy, fraudulent, corrupt, criminal bosses and politicians do to do to keep up their lifestyles by promising to give you “more for less,” regardless of what it takes to make that happen.

Disgusting? It’s beyond disgusting. And, I declare it is your supply chain even though you may share those poor workers with other major brands and retailers.

And while I’m at it, I’m also sick of hearing about how we lift up these third-world economies by importing billions of dollars of stuff, which in turn provides jobs for their poverty-level populace, thus creating a virtuous cycle of growth. Growth for whom? Growth for the bosses and politicians I described above, riding on “the backs” of cheap labor. Indeed, in harsh reality, it’s a vicious cycle of depression and death for those of least value to your supply chain – the workers.

It’s Your Supply Chain – Only You Can Do Something About It

So, I really have no interest in reading or hearing about consortiums, NGOs, and big gatherings of “Mr. Bigs” to figure out what to do about this horrific situation. We know where “designs by committee” end up; much less, committees that are made up, and largely led by, the very same people who have caused this disastrous situation in the first place — and whose interests benefit from keeping this as status quo.

At the end of the day, it is your supply chain, period. So, do something about it on your own. Get “feet on the ground” where this horror is playing out, and do the right thing by forcing those at the beginning of your supply chain to do the right thing. And then keep your people on the ground to enforce it.

And if the bosses don’t adhere to your demands, just plain fire them, as you would any other employee that doesn’t work by the rules. YOU are the money train for the entire supply chain. Only YOU can make the right thing happen. If costs go up and you lose a few bucks on the bottom line, at least you may be saving a life at the very beginning of your supply chain.

So, do the right thing! Or, go live with yourself in a dark closet somewhere filled with clothes made by “slave labor.”

Land Of Opportunity To Barren Wasteland

rr_3-13_cover“Bubble Capitalism” Crushes the American Dream

Forget the cresting, breaking and other visible economic waves we discern on the surface of our economy — all accompanied by “cyclical” blathering of the dire necessity to create jobs and growth, and reduce debt and deficit spending.

While we blather, we’re blind. The less visible, stronger undercurrents of our dying free market capitalism that catapulted us to global economic dominance with the promise of an “American Dream” along with it, has been morphing into what I’m calling “bubble capitalism.” Some are calling it “crony capitalism,” which is equally descriptive. It’s just that bubbles are what the cronies feed off of. And it is crushing the American Dream by tipping the once-level playing field in favor of a narrowing segment of big finance and big business, aided and abetted by big government.

And let me be crystal clear. I am not whining for redistribution. I’m suggesting that if we don’t figure out a way to get back to good old democratic capitalism and its level playing field, we will have a barren wasteland in our future, albeit one that will be filled with a bunch of worthless stuff (popped bubble residue), scattered across a country that will look more and more like the third world. Think about three million empty, decaying and devalued houses following the leveraged-up mortgage crash of 2008. And what about the jobs lost, and spike in the number of people living below the poverty line?

Sorry, you want nice, you probably won’t find it in the Robin Report. We like to make wake-up calls. [Read more...]

Amazon Frightened the Behemoth And It Boomeranged

The Robin ReportThat would be the Walmart behemoth, still the one and only behemoth of its size in the world, the last I took count.  At about $61 billion in annual revenues, Amazon is still a puny contender to Walmart’s nearly $500 billion.  But, relatively puny as they might be, they scared the pants off Walmart several years ago when it was rumored they were about to open brick-and-mortar stores.

And although the behemoth did not heed FDR’s advice: “The only thing we have to fear is fear itself.” It was a good thing that they did not. Because if they had not feared Amazon’s rumored move, Bertrand Russell’s quote would not have been so prescient to Walmart’s management: “To conquer fear is the beginning of wisdom.”

If not solely due to a reaction to Amazon, Walmart nevertheless got wise real fast. And they got wise in how they viewed the future of retailing and their participation in it. In other words, the paradigm was shifting in Bentonville, and still is. And now it should be Amazon who is shaking in fear.

The Scenario

I believe the fear led to some epiphanies in the management ranks down in Bentonville.  Seeing the future more clearly, I think they looked at their business model and said, “hey guys, we’ve been stuck in our paradigm of the past: a store is a store is a store.”

In fact, they were so focused on stores being stores, that a few years ago when a top executive at Walmart was asked if the rumor of Amazon opening stores was true, his reply was not a mild, “we’d be concerned,” or even “we’d view that as a serious competitive threat.”  He said, “That is Walmart’s biggest fear,” with the emphasis on “is,” meaning, of course, that there was more fact than fiction smoking out of that rumor.  And indeed, the drums are now beating louder in anticipation of Amazon launching brick-and-mortar stores.

So, what happened in Bentonville was epiphany #1, which caused a complete flip from playing defensive to going on the offense. From a fear of Amazon coming onto their turf with Pentagon-sized consumer data and opening showroom-like stores tailored to local consumer preferences. Walmart, rather than shaking in their boots, awakened to the understanding that they were looking at their business model the old-fashioned way and operating with old-growth strategies, accordingly.

The Epiphany and Newfound Wisdom

Walmart awakened to the fact that a store isn’t a store, and likewise, a website isn’t just a website.  These are not two distinct and discreet businesses.  And more than just seeing its business as an “omnichannel,” that over-worked buzzword, Walmart, in my opinion, cleared the fuzz from their vision and saw their business as being a direct-to-consumer distributor of goods and services.

When viewed as such, they can envision and create all kinds of virtual and real distribution channels and platforms, including smaller neighborhood stores and even potentially operating on competitors’ platforms.  All, of course, must be responsive to wherever, whenever, however and how often the consumer wants to purchase.  So, Walmart then assesses their enormous global enterprise of some 4500 stores and redefines them as distribution centers (as Macy’s and other enlightened retailers have done) where online purchased goods can be picked up or returned.  Additionally, Walmart is still a physical shopping destination, while Amazon has zero stores. And to cite the now well-known fact that shoppers who shop both online and off spend 50% more than those who shop only one channel, just adds a synergy weapon that Amazon lacks.

Viewed through this new lens, those guys in Arkansas have themselves a big chuckle, as they talk about puny little Amazon (no longer the specter of death) scurrying around placing distribution “lockers” in Staples, Rite Aid and others.  Furthermore, Walmart realizes that its online sales of about $9 billion is less than 2% of its total business. And while in absolute numbers, that ranks them second only to Amazon online (in its channel) with its size leverage, including 4500 distribution centers (and stores) to Amazon’s roughly 100 (and zero stores), it also means their opportunity to quickly ramp up, or to “get bigger than Amazon, faster” to use Bezos’ mantra, is enormous.  Should Amazon now be afraid of losing their dominance online?

That said, Bezos calls the start of every day, “Day 1.” He’s truly a genius and if, as predicted in my past article, Amazon launches stores (more as localized “showroom” experiences) and assaults the behemoth in every neighborhood and on the global playing field, the guys in Arkansas will likely stop chuckling.  As pointed out in that article, Amazon’s growth since 2006 was a blistering 300% (while Walmart grew 21% during the same period).

My question at the time, as it is now: “So, how long does it take a $69 billion business, growing at a 300% pace every five years, to reach $500 billion in sales?” You do the math. Answer: it’s about eight years. And, if they synergize the ecommerce business with stores, it might even be sooner.

So, welcome to the heavyweight championship of the world. In one corner, we have the reigning and current champion, the “Behemoth from Bentonville.”  In the other is the smaller and lighter, but feisty and fast, “Amazing Amazon Apocalypse,” who claims to float like a butterfly and sting like a bee. Ladies and gentlemen, place your bets.

Dispatches

Robin Lewis“What Your Intern Is Really Thinking, “ written by our staff Millennial, Grace Ehlers addresses the seemingly cavalier and misguided view among most companies about her generation, particularly those with college degrees. The article was justifiably critical, in my opinion, of companies assuming that these “best and brightest” of the Millennials should be available for hire as non-compensated “interns.” She has a follow-up article in which she challenges the misconceptions among many companies about the work ethics and career expectations of her generation.

So, as I set forth my argument regarding the deflation and devaluation of our economy and everything in it, due to our shift from value creation to value consumption, exacerbated by our new, “less-free- market” form of capitalism, it struck me how this shift is, and will continue to have perhaps its greatest negative impact on Grace’s generation. Conversely, it also struck me how this shift is wasting this generation as the greatest asset we have, and if given the chance, they might provide the very solution we need to reverse our economic decline.

Here’s the scenario for these Millennials. On totally reverse trajectories we have an economy that is shifting from higher-paying manufacturing jobs, including those in charge of running those companies, who also happen to require higher intelligence and professional skills, to lower-paying service jobs (feeding a consumption economy), and which require a lower set of skills and level of education. So not only fewer jobs, but lower paying jobs that are well beneath the skills of college graduates.

Furthermore, the theory that once we lost our manufacturing base we would simply move up the “food chain,” creating wealth and higher levels of value through innovation, technology and science has been debunked by many economists. In short, engineering, science and technology degrees are being sought less by students instead favoring MBA’s and liberal arts. And, while thousands of foreign students do seek those degrees from our best universities, they are finding it almost impossible (for many reasons) to obtain visas to stay and work in the US. Thus we not only lose their intelligence for these higher “food chain” industries, we are in fact, exporting these industries to China, India and other countries around the world. And, while all of this is happening, more and more young people than ever before have been graduating with college degrees.

However, most of them are heavily in debt for educational loans, (in the aggregate, about $1 trillion, and the percentage of borrowers who are more than 90 days delinquent has risen to 17%, from 10% in 2004). And the number of young Americans without a job has exploded to 53.4% —a post-World War II high, according to the Labor Department.

So, fewer and fewer jobs and more and more educated young people in dire need of jobs, spells tragedy. It is a tragedy because as I said, we are wasting our most valuable asset, the one cohort of our population who, if given a chance, might figure out how to reverse the economic decline.

Our Brave New Hi-Tech Hi-Touch World

robin report marie claire yacobian yacobian marie claire meality unique Brooks brothers master card bloomingdales google cotton goldman sachs NY HILTON ticket

 

 

The Perfect Fit at Bloomingdale’s

meality_bloomingdales_350We all know about the problem of lousy fitting apparel, but, the percentage of women who can’t find clothes that fit is awesome: try 62%, and online, it’s the biggest barrier for trying new brands. Worse for retailers, $45 billion of it is returned annually from both store and online purchases. Those are staggeringly bad numbers. And we are not just having a “hissy-fit” over bad-fitting apparel. This is reality and has been for as long as I’ve been in the business, which is now way too long. [Read more...]

Crows, Crows Everywhere, and Which Ones to Eat?

robin_lewis_crow_medNote that the crow sitting on my shoulder is not yet on a plate waiting to be eaten. That’s because I’m trying to remember all the reasons for which I should be eating crow, and when I identify all of them, how I might gracefully go about eating all of it.

But before I get into that, I must inform all of my readers who may have been living on another planet, that the subject here is perhaps the most colossal, dramatic, tragic, transparent, rapid and microscopically tracked meltdown in the history of retailing. That being the current saga of JC Penney, along with its producer, director and leading man: Ron Johnson.

I say meltdown because JC Penney is not yet dead (Johnson isn’t either, but regardless, the vultures are picking away at him with glee). In fact, I’m still confident (and hopeful) that one of the biggest reasons for which many of you believe I should be eating crow, is my continuing and steadfast belief in Johnson’s ultimate vision: that of a transformed, uniquely-compelling shopping experience, appealing to a more contemporary-minded consumer who would form a new customer base, perhaps a smaller, yet more productive business, but nevertheless poised for growth vs. maturity.

As I’ve stated before, based on my tour of the mock-up store and some of the real conversions made in other doors, the major component of his vision was off to a good start. Anecdotally, Joe Mimran, CEO of Joe Fresh, commented to me just two weeks out from the Joe Fresh “shops” launch in about 700 doors, that he was surprised at how sales far exceeded their expectations. So, of all the parts of Johnson’s strategy that Mike Ullman will be picking through to determine what is salvageable, my hope is that he and/or his successor will continue to implement that transformation. And, by the way, Ullman, in my opinion is absolutely the right person to come back to the helm during this period of operational disruption and disarray, with financials about to go over the cliff. He will stabilize the business, its culture and will hopefully determine a path to return to positive financial stability.

So, I really won’t have to eat crow over the major part of Johnson’s change-agent strategy until it’s either, played out and proven a failure, or unless Mike Ullman decides it is no longer a viable transformation or a repositioning that will succeed. On second thought, if Ullman decides to kill it, I guess I won’t have to eat crow at all because we’ll never know if it would have succeeded, once fully rolled out.

One Potential Meal of Crow: The One That Brought it all Down

There is one major reason for which I may decide to eat a taste of crow. And Ron Johnson may very well have already eaten several whole birds. And that would be me buying into his pricing strategy, both the way in which he devised it (and without research), but more importantly, the timing. I doubled down on his bet that consumers were ready to be weaned, cold turkey, off of their addiction to coupons, sales and discounting in general. By the way, it reminds me of that movie, “Reefer Madness” (circa 1936).

Anyway, the fact that he chose to lead with “fair and square” pricing, before any noticeable physical changes in the stores; before establishing contemporized new brands and merchandise; essentially before a whole new JCP and its array of experiences could be clearly witnessed by consumers; in my opinion, this was the single most catastrophic component of his overall strategy. This single act, sent his customers packing, spending $4 billion of JCP’s top line elsewhere and contributing to its $1 billion operating loss (along with the other capital and reorganizational expenses), for Johnson’s first year into the transformation.

While he acknowledged his mistake, too little was done too late to reverse the avalanche of sales losses that just kept building. Tragically, in my opinion, this was the major mistake that brought the financial condition of the company to the brink, and threw Johnson over the edge.

Had he not opened with his cold-turkey pricing scheme, and simply proceeded with the physical transformation, customers may have been somewhat disrupted by the construction and changes taking place. Some may have been put off, but not in droves. Some of the older customers may have ultimately been turned off by some of the new, more contemporary brands. But, as the total experience, including the merchandise, evolved over time, new, younger “family” customers would have been attracted, replacing the aging segment of the old JCP core. And as I said, the new transformed space (probably with fewer doors), would be more productive as some of the early “shop” comparisons proved. Furthermore, this added experiential value for consumers would justify some variation of his “fair and square” pricing strategy. And, yes, they would have been poised for growth.

Would Ron Johnson still have a job if the numbers had not tumbled with such ferocity, along with the relentless beating from Wall Street and the media day-in and day-out?

Well, according to the authors of most of the post-mortem articles, blogs and broadcasts, who keep digging up all of the negative residue they can find about Ron Johnson’s character (including hubris), management style, lack of CEO experience, snap decision-making without testing or experienced counsel, and many other questionable strategic and tactical missteps, one could believe there are a multitude of reasons other than Johnson’s pricing strategy that would have eventually led to his demise.

We’ll never know. But, I will stick my neck out once again, (for which I will not have to eat crow), and just repeat what we all do know. Money talks and that’s why Bill Ackman and the Board finally “walked.”

At the end of the day, and Ron Johnson’s last day at JC Penney, it was the pricing that brought it all down.

And at the end of my day, this is what I will eat crow over. And for all of those “I told you so’s” in my over-stuffed inbox, I will savor it and will eat it gracefully, while I hope for Johnson’s successor to continue transforming JC Penney into an innovative store for our times with an eye to the future.

Hogwash

iStock_000000315739_ExtraSmallAnd if You Believe It, I “Have a Bridge to Sell You.”

Hogwash is a great word, as I was reminded by my colleague, Judy Russell, CEO of consultancy Markethink. First used in the 15th Century, it referred to swill, slop, nonsense and balderdash. And it’s particularly appropriate when describing the findings of a recent study conducted by none other than the Boston Consulting Group, as well an earlier survey conducted by NPD in the fall of last year.

Up front and to be clear, I am not attaching the “hogwash” description to the methodology, and how the research was conducted by these two revered institutions; and not even the accuracy of the findings. I am describing as “hogwash” what the findings indicate would be consumer behavior in making a purchasing decision based on patriotism and a “made in America” label over price. [Read more...]

JCP, Argo, the Golden Fleece, Odysseus, and the Sirens

greek_chorusThere is some irony to JCP’s heavy sponsorship of the Oscars relative to Argo winning “best picture.” The fact that the mythical Greek ship Argo and its crew were searching for the elusive Golden Fleece while being protected by the goddess Hera might be a good omen for Ron Johnson. However, there doesn’t seem to be even a mythical protector anywhere in sight, much less a real one. In fact, using another mythological metaphor, Johnson could be like Odysseus, being warned of the Sirens by the Greek goddess Circe. The Sirens were trying to lure him and his ship’s crew to their certain death, being tossed by the sea into the very same rocks and cliffs that Argo was able to sail past. Circe told Odysseus to put beeswax in the ears of his crew and if he felt he couldn’t resist listening, he should have his crew lash him to the mast. [Read more...]

Nordstrom: Ghost of Vince Lombardi Lives On

With Some 65,000 Quarterbacks

I wrote an article in 2004 in which I compared Nordstrom with the Green Bay Packers at their peak between 1958 and 1968 under coach Vince Lombardi. Guess what? Lombardi’s spirit lives on within the Nordstrom team, roughly 65,000 strong, and all of them “quarterbacks.” To revisit the past, the opening paragraph I wrote eight years ago was as follows:

Cover_02.04_FlatThe late, great Vince Lombardi, renowned coach of the Green Bay Packers from 1958 to 1968, never got confused over the concepts of “strategy” or “tactics.” And he never confused his team about them either. He viewed football as a “game of inches” and the superior execution of the “basics” of the game, such as blocking and tackling. I know the Nordstrom family hails from the city of Seattle, and I know basketball was their game. And basketball certainly is not a game of inches. However, to hear Blake Nordstrom, President of Nordstrom, talk about their recent “wins,” it’s like listening to the ghost of Vince Lombardi, albeit at a somewhat lower decibel level.While many experts at the time cited technological initiatives for Nordstrom’s huge earnings and sales gains that year, Blake Nordstrom was quoted as saying:  “I think any gains that we’ve had have less to do with technology and more to do with Retail 101.

I thought ‘hmmm,’ sounds like “blocking and tackling” to me.

Now, eight years later, sales are estimated by FactSet to increase by 14% to about $12 billion for 2012 (a roughly $5 billion increase over 2004 revenues of $7.1 billion). Making these numbers even more impressive are the year-in, year-out, profitability metrics: same store sales and sales per square foot, (see accompanying chart).

Also, during the past eight years, Nordstrom continued to invest heavily in technology and perfect its “omnichannel” capabilities. In fact, they are widely acknowledged as being a technology leader among their peers. But, again, Blake Nordstrom, in his humble demeanor, would say the same thing: essentially, it’s not about technology, it’s about “Retail 101.” [Read more...]

The Back Page

Jeff_BezosJEFF BEZOS AND THE NORDSTROMS THINK ALIKE
“We innovate by starting with the customer and working backwards,” said Jeff Bezos.

His credos: long-term thinking, customer obsession, a willingness to invent. AMEN

HENRY FORD DIDN’T MINCE WORDS WHEN IT CAME TO “GOVERNMENT”
“Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the Government take care of him, had better take a closer look at the American Indian.”

thomasfriedmanFAST FORWARD TO OUR CURRENT SCLEROTIC MESS IN WASHINGTON
“Both parties are shooting themselves in the foot and our future in the head.”
Thomas Friedman

ANOTHER INSIGHTFUL VIEW OF OUR CONTEMPORARY CULTURE
“What happened to the future—we wanted flying cars instead we got 140 characters,”
said Peter Thiel, co-founder and CEO, PayPal

CLAUDIO DEL VECCHIO, RETAIL GIANT FIRST, PHILOSOPHER SECOND
“We are not good because we are old, but rather,we are old because we are good.”
Claudio Del Vecchio, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, Brooks Brothers

The Bottom: Where Is It?

Robin LewisTalk about “race to the bottom,” what’s happening on a global economic scale should scare the heck out of all of us. Listen to this. It’s no longer just the devaluing of goods, through discounting or growing through the expansion of outlet stores instead of full-price stores; or the “Amazonian” business practice of losing money to gain share by undercutting competitors’ pricing. It’s also about the devaluing of currencies across the globe. Such a currency devaluation in the U.S., for example, is driven by our blatant and ongoing printing of more “greenbacks,” (supported by “nada” I might add; just the blind hope that things will eventually get better). Originally intended to spur domestic investment and growth through the compression of short-term interest rates to stimulate borrowing, it has instead been used primarily for the “speed trading” of equities for short-term gain. It is also intended to stimulate exports, as the dollar falls in value against other currencies around the globe, making it cheaper for other countries to buy American goods. Sounds terrific, doesn’t it? [Read more...]